For what its worth, Ive purchased more boots in the past 3 years than any other style of footwear (dress/service types of models). I have a pair of Chelsea boots by Sanders, bought at John Rushtons. Career and job listings in fashion, mens clothing, Reviews of Classifieds and classifieds sellers, No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread (a.k.a. Being from the UK my first proper pair of shoes at University were a pair of Loake 1880s they were fine and really all I needed at the time. But I would be fairly confident that, as with other English makers, you get pretty much exactly what you pay for. Thing is that, not referring to Berluti necessarily now, but we do see a number of very famous bespoke shoemakers, not least in England, who the past years have started to put out shoes that arent properly made and/or have a proper fit. With thick socks, fits like a snug glove all around on unstructured toe. Shoe makes are easier than almost anything to compare in this respect, because you get something more at each level. But their attempt to branch out has caused them to lose their focus. 2. The two lasts I mentioned are super comfortable straight out of the box, and I can wear them all day without the slightest discomfort. Whites Barrie 8.5D: Felt too tight on the instep brand new. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, This is an example of what a good comment looks like. Im not the only one. And in pictures I can see a difference in appearance, at least in terms of shape and design, but I am not sure if there is much of a difference elsewhere (I get that bespoke and such will fit nicer). I'd probably be good with a 10E. But I am not a US citizen, at least no chauvinism involved. Its actually something well touch on in our upcoming piece looking at budgets and capsule wardrobes. Fast worldwide deliveries; 14 day returns; . Do you not think theres some advantage to dealing directly with the maker, and perhaps an understandable desire from the maker to control some more of the customer experience? Alden Barrie: I can be comfortable in Bluchers in 8.5E. Parkhurst 602 Last 9D: Fit well off the bat, little to no break-in. Off sale they come in at about 380 per pair (sale price 225) and they have a great re-furb service where for 80, theyll send them back to you as good as new. The close-channel stitching is also a plus, you know youre getting more handwork for the soles. 1. I guess I was just wondering whether some of those extra things were actually noticeable in terms of comfort, durability, etc, especially because a number of mid-range shoes now have some of the things you mentioned: closed channels, oak-bark soles (or if not, that is always something you can get on the resole), a wide range of leathers, etc. We start at the top end of that market, and then gradually work our way down. * **Thomas George Popes** 7.5UK quite snug, grips heel well but pinches the toes a bit. Career and job listings in fashion, mens clothing, Reviews of Classifieds and classifieds sellers, No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread (a.k.a. After further research I stand by my words. I think calling things cost-effective when you just mean cheaper would be a needless euphemism. In that regard, let me plug TLB as a particularly sound value proposition. Wearing socks, stand on a piece of paper with your feet against the wall. Brilliant article I really enjoyed that . France doesnt have the shoemaking tradition of the UK, Spain or Italy, and its brands like Loding or Orbans are all made in Spain and Portugal. He knows the market back to front and is a lovely gent. I've been told that the forest last is the only one available in a wide, but only in mto. Compared to the HOK 9 and 2030 9.5 this started with the loosest heel, which lead to a bit of slop, but broke in with some wear. Bought before I understood my size. High Top vs Low Top Boxing Shoes: Which Is Best for You? You may learn more here. Their online interface is very easy to use, and being able to make these selection is so much better than being constrained to the ready-made options a manufacturer has selected. As mentioned in the top comment, we were focusing on shoes under 300. Why not economical or cost effective or something else which has more neutral/positive connotation unlike cheap. Barrie 9.5D: Bad fit. When you go to shoe shows like Micam, the Berwick stand is always the one that's crowded.. For something more formal I turn to Carmina which provides the best bang for the buck. Rancourt 115 9D: Great fit. I have a pair of black calf oxfords from Morjas and the leather feels rather cheap: it looks like patent leather, only matte not shiny. These classy are built for the ultimate style, comfort, functionality, and elegance of the elite. Herringshoes.com). All Enzos were tried as oxfords and have comfortable insteps with no gap, * **Fugashin Saigon unknown wholecut last** 8UK comfortable, good instep for oxford, * **Gaziano Girling DG70** 8.5EUK comfortable. All leather if even sanded a tiny bit to remove flaws in the skin is corrected. Everything from the finishing, to the thick upper, to the last shape seemed cheap and unattractive. . HIRO 9: Terrible fit. I have wide feet (I wear 8EEE on the 65 last in Allen Edmonds) so almost none of the regular lasts fit me, except for Forest 7.5EEE. This is very useful, thank you. I also had disappointing experiences with Myrqvists quality. Trickers town shoes, especially the wonderful Belgrave adelaide, top any C&J shoe I have in terms of comfort and build. Its got a bit of a shorter toe relative to the heel to ball. As someone with narrow feet, and unable to afford bespoke, this is a major bugbear of mine. Definitely wish Viberg made more boots on this last. * **Gaziano Girling DG70** 8.5FUK comfortable. Thanks for the personal comment it is very helpful and interesting, Any thoughts about the German brand Hammerstein? Would really appreciate any advice you can give! Way too narrow all around, last too tapered for my taste. Im a regular customer of both Jermyn Street shops and the customer service Ive consistently experienced over many years has been exceptionally good, significantly better than Ive experienced in some other, more expensive establishments that will be well known to readers of this blog. Id love to step up to Crocketts as Ive heard great things. I would caution anyone against reading the shoegazing blog. Carminas are really chic, classy, and fashionable. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. Ive decided to get a pair of loafers, which Id wear with flannels, chinos, dark denim and (occasionally) shorts. I have to say from personal experience I found Berwick to be the most incredible value. Yes, you certainly do notice the differences, and they are both of the quality type (unlike a shirt) and the making type (more like hand sewing). And the soles are much more flexible too, more similar to a Blake stitched shoe than a Goodyear welted one. However about 5 years ago they reached some export deals with local retailers here in Canada and is sold here for over 500, where I used to get them shipped from England for 2-300. C&J do not run their own shops. At Styleforum, youll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis. When I complained I was told The second pair is always better ! Perhaps someone will find them useful: 1. Travel Shoes Poll: What shoes do you bring with you on short trips? Its a shame that fees make the value proposition go down fellow shoe enthusiasts abroad. This is more important for those that dont find heels fit them well, generally. Main point, though, is that C&J, EG etc are different enough in quality to justify their price point in USD. The 5th toe of my right foot has always been mildly adducted and overlapping the 4th toe. And do you know any retailer in continental Europe who sells Anthony Cleverley? Both these shoemakers offer value far and a way above a UK shoe at a similar price point so they really are worth a look for a person prepared to put in the effort. Loake1880 is good starting point and it used to be a very good value. Their leather in general is terrible, even after wearing the shoe almost a year on a regular basis (hoping it will get softer), it keeps being stiff and uncomfortable. I have not found any better service than that provided by the C&J shops in Jermyn Street (and actually at the factory shop on the one occasion I managed to visit). The former you appreciate in the shoes over time. I happily pay the very reasonable cost for a brand providing a certain width, a good service, retaining the lasts that suits me and other added values. Santoni I have experienced, and I would say the same. I feel much less tired in my feet after a long day, and if one have a bit problematic feet it will be an even bigger difference.. Meermins are not bad fits though; these shoes are flexible and stretchable enough to blend with your feet measurements accurately once you get the right sizing. Carminas are more expensive than Meermins. I think I could tell the difference between a standard C&J and EG from a distance, though I wouldnt like to put that to the test! Ive found one Cheaney last with a wide toe box that works for me by sizing down so that the heel fits but very little success with other makers. He replied straight-faced: No, we only use the best full-grain calf for our shoes. Theyre both very big brands now.. Additional notes: Heel-to-toe is 10, width on the border of D/E; heel-to-ball is 11. Also Berwick, Yanko and others. If youre better of with 2 pairs of JC than 1 pair of JL is another question. Yes they do take a while to break in, but once they were, they ended up being just as comfortable as all my other GYW shoes. I did have a little heel slip in the beginning that went away. Do you think a knowledgeable observer like yourself could tell the difference in leather quality when they are being worn on someone elses feet (can you spot the difference in leather quality between CJ and EG when someone else is wearing them and your eyes are 6 plus feet away)? Giro bike shoes: 45.5 EU - Great fit. Much better quality than todays Allen Edmonds at comparable prices. Loake Bullet last (F-fit): 7Uk fits but a bit tight around toes. Worn with normal dress socks. 2. are priced above the equivalent Allen Edmonds, usually at an Alden equivalent price. In the long run you will always regret buying a pair that ticks all the boxes, but doesnt have a good fit. D. C. D. Medium. I would also include Lof & Tung on this list its Skoaktiebolagets house brand (though I havent seen any in person), and their customer service is excellent too. Especially compared to other Spanish or Italian shoes, which are also a bit softer than the English., North America: Spier & MacKay, Allen Edmonds, Cobbler Union, John Doe. Hi Simon, do you know if JM Westons shoes are at a similar level to Crockett&Jones Handgrade? Fugashin is similar: the two are competitors in Vietnam. Trickers 4444: A perfect fit in 8.5 with medium socks in Logger boots. The Jermyn Street stores are run by a franchisee. If your size in a Viberg last is a bit snug I would consider sizing up for GYW. But in the same moment, I realised this was unfair. Berwick is very good quality and seems to be stealing some of Loakes market share in the U.K. Prices at the well known shoe store near Victoria undercut Loake. Viberg 2050 9: The E width of this last is still unreleased, but its what I would likely do for another pair in this last. Some of the best dress shoes that you can get with your money today are the Carminas and the Meermins. Can add that you can find a review of Carlos Santos here on Shoegazing: https://shoegazing.com/2015/09/06/review-carlos-santos-7201-braga-cognac/. Most of my shoes are Crockett & Jones because of the great customer service and the consistent quality. Also, as this pair is the kind of a pair of is, this hasn't been in the easiest environments. Good point about Allen Edmonds. Good to have it spelt out, Michael is correct when simply paying a US retailer for a Northampton shoe, but Ive purchased over 20 pairs of English shoes and boots over the past 18 months, all directly from a myriad of U.K. retailers and stockists and in some cases, the factory directly. Rancourt's lasting seems very inconsistent. The last of their chukka didnt fit me, but the suede felt surprisingly good for the price. So far I remained unconvinced but then again I dont know any better. As someone who has handled or owned several of these brands I thought it would be helpful to offer my experience, anecdotal though it may be. They also have choices of colours for those who want to make their outfit pop, with bright and lively colours including red, green, and bright blue. $215 shipped to the US. I used DT cushioned boot socks at the time. Check Availability Meermin Wingtips Review Premium Leather Uppers stitched down well with Goodyear Welting strategies make the Carmina shoes to be one of the most well-finished shoes that we have had the privilege of wearing. Former Affiliate Vendor Threads; a Locked Forum. Alden Barrie (lined shell): 10D, a little snug at the big toe but great in the ball and very supportive overall. Is it enough to justify the extra 75 quid per pair? 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